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Articles: Recreation -
Surfing
By Joseph
Tierney
The first thing you need when you start surfing is a
surfboard. For beginners, it is recommended to start on a longboard
because it is much easier to stand up on over a shortboard. You can
practice on the beach:
1. Lay the board down on the sand face
up.
2. Lay on the board face
down.
3. Jump up, pushing your arms out in front of you and
moving your legs back onto the board. You want your legs to be one
in front of the other. You want to do this all in ONE QUICK
MOTION.
4. Repeat this many times until you've got the hang of
it.
This is when the real work begins - paddling. The key
is to make sure your shoulders are back, your feet are together and
you paddle hard. This is what you want to practice while you are
first beginning. You will eventually get the hang of
it.
Now you are going to learn how to get under the waves
you don't want.
1. Paddle as fast as you can at the white water coming
onto you.
2. Start to push the top of your board down under the
water when you get about 5 feet away from the
wave.
3. Next kick with your foot on the tail of your
surfboard.
4. Try to create a "scooping" motion with your body and
surfboard, going under the wave and coming out the other
side.
Congratulations, you just completed your first duck
dive!
Now the hardest part of all, actually standing up on
the surfboard - on a wave and not on the
sand.
Remember what you were doing on the beach in the sand?
These are the techniques that you want to apply to this
step.
When you are out in the surf lineup and you see a wave
coming that you want to catch, start paddling for it. You want to
angle your board down at an angle to the face of the wave. Point the
board the direction you want to go. When you feel the wave start to
pick you up, stand up! You should try evening your weight over the
center of the board so you don't fall over. Keep practicing you will
get the hang of it.
It might take a little bit of time to get used to, but
you can definetly be standing up and riding waves in 6 hours or
less!
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